Esker Nature
According to botanic geography Punkaharju is part of the Eastern Finland
herb-rich forest area and its most important natural features are a direct
result of the Ice Age. The unique shapes of the esker ridge were formed 10 000
years ago as the continental glacier withdrew towards the Bothnian Sea at the
end of the Ice Age. The first vegetation spread to the area as the land came in
view from beneath melt-waters. There are still signs today of the early species
which spread in the area. The Yellow Oxytropis (Oxytropis campestris)
blooms generously along the ridge road in May - June. Today the Alpine Milkvetch
(Astragalus alpinus) is a typical northern and esker plant. For the
most part the area’s vegetation consists of species typical of dry forests.
These are for example Catsfoot (Antennaria dioica), the Heather
(Calluna vulgaris) and the Lingonberry (Vaccinium
vitis-idaea).
The area’s steep surfaces create varying habitats: the south and west facing
slopes glow with heat on hot summer days, whereas the north and east facing
slopes maintain a cool and damp microclimate. Indeed demanding esker vegetation
which can tolerate high temperatures thrives on the southern slopes. The soil
holds water poorly so plants must also be able to tolerate dry conditions.
Along-side the driest pine forests there are also small, lush herb-rich forest
islets on the lake shores and at the bottom of “suppa” depressions. Demanding
species such as the Wonder Violet (Viola mirabilis), the Great-spurred
Violet (Viola selkirkii), the Broad-leaved Willowherb (Epilobium
montanum) and Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) grow in
these spots.
Kokonharju Old-growth Forest
The area around the ridge top road has been landscaped taking scenic points
into special consideration, which means the area does not represent esker
landscape in its most natural state. A good comparison point for the research
forest and the landscaping area is Kokonharju Esker, where forests have been
left to develop and grow in peace getting closer to their natural state. The
grand pines have an undergrowth of smaller spruce trees and as time passes the
forest will become overgrown.
Birds and Animals
In this area visitors have the opportunity to see some of the typical species
of dry forests. Visitors may encounter the Tree Pipit (Anthus
trivialis), the Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata), the Common
Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus) and the Common Cuckoo (Cuculus
canorus). On summer nights at twilight visitors can listen to the
mysterious humming of the Nubian Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus). Also
the Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) and the Great Spotted
Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) nest in the area. The Black-throated
Diver (Gavia arctica), the Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps
grisegena) and the Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus) thrive
in the area’s shoreline waters. Very fortunate visitors may catch a glimpse of a
group of Spotted Nutcrackers (Nucifraga caryocatactes) in the research
forest’s Swiss and Siberian stone pine forest in Laukansaari area. On the
Kaarnalahti Bay and Lake Valkialampi shores there are commonly bite marks left
by beavers and during quiet evenings hikers may even see an actual beaver
(Castor canadensis). Also the muskrat (Ondatra zibethicus) and
the fox (Vulpes vulpes) have been seen in the ridge area.
Research Forests
There is a long tradition of forest research in Punkaharju area. The
arboretum in which visitors have the chance to see approximately one hundred
tree species, brings its own spice to the area. The arboretum is located next to
Punkaharju Esker Nature Reserve in Laukansaari area. Trees from corresponding
climate zones have been relocated to Finland as a test to see how they will fare
here in Finland. Amongst these there are exceptional species such as the Picea
abies f. virgata. Studies and follow-up have helped gather new information on
forest nature as well as helped in develop new forest cultivation methods. The Forest Research Institute
(www.metla.fi) is the party which answers for these studies.
